Fort Lauderdale part one

Fort Lauderdale - yet again!
As most of you know this is our second visit here, the first time in 2013 when it was only going to be a stop off before heading north, we stayed over 7 months, what?

So at the end of May we came in and stopped at the City dock for a few days then arranged a lift out at Playboy marine so that the anti foul, waxing, general "bottom jobs" could be done. That meant staying off the boat in a hotel which was welcome as our bed didn't move, great.

When we first made landfall in the town it was only a short walk to the local supermarket "Publix" reminding us that you can buy pretty much anything here. It was so difficult to not fill the trolley to the brim and only buy the essentials. Having said that I couldn't resist walking down all the isles where the freezer cabinets light up as you walk by them, childish I know but I found it funny trying not to giggle as I did so.

So the task began, Don sanded down the hull, stripped the prop, replaced the bumpers, all the anodes, had the cutlass bearing pulled off and replaced then repainted after numerous coats of primer. I'm not mentioning all the details but as you cruisers out there know its not so simple as that. Don worked very hard and did a splendid job. I will post pics on part two of this blog.

After almost 2 weeks we "splashed" then went back to the city dock for a few days then moved along the river inland to Cooley's landing.

Cooley's has better facilities than the city dock, WiFi, a great laundry, showers and lots of ducks. No I didn't mean to say docks I did say ducks, lots of families which seem to continually breed.
We like ducks so please forgive all the pics, by the way they are qackless  but the babies sort of squeak and the adults make a gentle snorting noise.

Love this sign, pity its not near us where the ducks are 

Following mum and dad, Can I hear you saying arrrrrrrr  ?

I'm afraid this poor thing didn't survive

Guard duck

We are close to 7th avenue bridge which after a time you get used to the bells ringing when it opens and closes on demand for boats that can't get underneath, in fact as I write this its bells are ringing now and has done several times since I started writing. The bells are not so noisy at night maybe they turn them off but the lights flash a lot.

Its a lovely 15 or 20 minute walk to the supermarket depending on which way you go so I tend to walk the long pretty way along the river going and return the quicker way with the food as its pretty warm here.

From here its a nice walk along the river front, free water taxi's operate but don't go very far, we did a short return one day as the weather looked grim. On the 1st Sunday of the month there is an free open air music concert in a couple of places and crowds take their own seats, sunshades, food, dogs and just about the kitchen sink. There are food stalls too for those that don't bring their own. Its a nice friendly atmosphere with lots of folks dancing.

We have no idea what this is all about but its close to the city dock and next to the court house

This is a bank named the 5th and third, weird name. 

Lots of high rise here

The Wells Fargo bank, its our bank, yes they use a coach and horses logo.

Bank of America

Its a long way up or down depending on how you think

yet another high rise, love the reflexions

Taking tourists along the river, they have a running commentary as they go along, we hear the same story every day as they pas us, sometimes they wave and cheer at us. 

Not sure about this and its meaning but its next to the court and jail 

I quite like this

Maybe waiting for a bus? 

These guys are watching you!

A green Heron

I'm sure I have missed things out but I can add bits in the next blog.

BFN
Glenys and Don
Agua Therapy

Bahamas, the last before the Land of Plenty

Bahamas, the last before the Land of Plenty, meaning the USA of course.
Sunday 10th of May 24° 10 N 76° 27 W
So as I mentioned we are off to Warderick Wells, a place that we visited on our first trip north. We contacted the ranger by VHF and arranged a mooring in advance, thats the way it has to be done as there aren't many and there can be a waiting list, we were luck and so just a short sail from Big Majors spot.

A 07:15 start, its only just over 20nm so we should be on a ball for 11:30.
with the wind almost behind us, sea state good and between 13-15 knots so we aren't going anywhere fast.

The darker blue water is where its deeper and has the moorings.

Picked up one of the moorings around 11:30 at 24° 23 N  76° 38W
Checked in for a couple of days giving us enough time to explore, take our Agua Therapy sign for Boo Boo hill as I doubt the old one is anywhere to be seen.

The view from Boo Boo hill is spectacular.

We took the dinghy outside the park to the opposite side of us, to Paradise trail and explored until we reached the other side.

 We saw Richard and Jan from Morpheus of London coming in to join us so we passed by and arranged sundowners later that day. Great entertainment from the Hutia's, lizards and sugar birds.

Hutia's love popcorn

They love sugar solution

Fantastic sunset that night

06:36Tuesday 12th May. Left at high tide to cross the sand bank out into the sea heading for West Bay, Highbourne Cays.
Just outside the park even though its high tide here we still had a moment being very close to the bottom, depth sounder suddenly went from 1mtr to zero.
Up went the cruising chute as the winds were pretty low at around 12-15 knots, it was a nice short sail just 30nm or so.
We managed to anchor in 1.7 mtrs of crystal clear waters with protection from the reef so we didn't roll about. 24° 43 N 76° 49 W
Didn't go ashore just chilled out watching the world, fish and charter boats come and go.

Thursday14th May, 08:45 a late start, again very little wind.
Its a 53 mile trip and we want to get in before the light fails. Took advantage of the cruising chute as the wind was low but just right, the weather by 13:01 decided it was time to bring down the chute it had other ideas, squalls with up to 25 knots oh flip! So on with the iron horse and just the headsail.

The squalls lasted until 16:49 and then the wind disappeared completely, we dropped the anchor by 18:00 in another West Bay, New Providence Island.

As we approached the entrance the conditions weren't good, squall plus raging waves heading our way not nice! Well for the first time ever there was a solid wall of green water which made its way over the bow, decks coachroof, and sprayhood then down the companionway, I was just too late to do anything about it. We were pretty concerned about getting over the sandbank in through the entrance to the bay hoping the swell wouldn't bring us down with a bump. Phew glad that was over.
Friday 15th May. Had a reasonably peaceful night before setting off at 06:55 back over the sandbank at high tide, much calmer leaving than coming in. Full main and headsail now with just 15 - 18 knots. A 29nm trip to Bird Cay.
Bird Cay, we were all alone at anchor by 11:15 but it is pretty rolly here, the trick here is to go as close ashore for protection, in fact there isn't much its a low lying island but not so close to run aground. Nothing to see here just another deserted island. So the plan the next day was to go a little further West to Chub Cay.

Saturday 16th May, engine on and a very short trip to Chub cay, it was a very short stay after we dropped the anchor outside the marina entrance. Way too shallow and very rolly. When a couple of boats came past we decided that being so close to the entrance was a bad idea so back we go to Bird cay again.

Ok its Sunday 17th May, this is the last overnighter, heading across the Bahama banks directly to Fort Lauderdale.
A 07:00 start, its about 122 nm to the entrance to the bay so we should be there by very early morning. All went well until 11:32 when the squalls thought they would yet again entertain us. Down came the cruising chute, engine on and the headsail to assist us. Turned out to be pretty rolly for a few hours.
We made our heading for pretty much Miami knowing that when the Gulf stream had us in its grip we would be pushed pretty quickly past our destination. Well that was the plan anyway, we were doing so well, it was my watch and I saw on the AIS three huge barges which were going to be in our path if we didn't do something about it. So I called Don to help out, just as we were about to hail the closest one they called us, thats the benefit of having an AIS unit which transmits our information. Although we knew their course and speed we took the decision to change course and head north so we would pass astern of them and the two others following. It seemed to take hours, the first one was towing a barge 1200 mtrs long. So our intended course went somewhat wrong, the evil Gulf stream dragged us north and it was a pain to get back to the entrance.

Oh well thats the Bahamas for now.

Next blog Fort Lauderdale.

BFN
Glenys and Don
Agua Therapy

Enjoying the amazing Bahamas in May

Enjoying the amazing Bahamas in May

7th May 2015
The weather now is much better in some respects although squalls can be a surprise we don't want. The wind now predicted to be in the right direction but very much depleted so its more motoring for us.

A 07:15 start so we can be in Rudder Cay nice and early in fact we had gone through the cut on an ebb tide with a 2 knot current against us, dropped the hook at 13:44.

Only 2 other yachts in when we arrived but others arrived later. Its a very pretty place another crystal clear sea and white sand beach however the island is private and has a trespassers warning sign and solar powered cameras on tall poles.

Neighbours 

There didn't seem much to see anyway

We had read about a sunken statue which sounded worth a look so off in the dinghy for us with the snorkel gear, there's really no need for diving gear here the water is very shallow and there is not much to see apart from the odd shark.

The Statue of a mermaid with a Steinway piano sat waiting for us, it did take a while to find. Apparently she was provided by David Copperfield the illusionist which was close to his island of Musha Cay but he had so much attention by the crowds he had it re located to Rudder Cay.

Anchored just opposite this cave

Lovely calm sunset 

8th May Great Majors Spot
Just a 7 hour trip I won't say sail as we had to motor for most of it, just the headsail for a little while. So here we are in Staniel Cay for the second time, we tried to anchor just a little way from the town but the depth yet again was too shallow so back to almost the same place on our first time here in Great Majors spot.

Otherwise known as the "bay of pigs" swimming pigs, not my favourite animal apart from a hog roast or best back bacon or sausage. Yes they do swim, cruisers go ashore with tit bits and manage to pet them however folks do get their backsides bit when they grow impatient for food. Don persuaded me to go in the dinghy, as we approached the beach the big pigs swam close by.

Look at the fish behind her

Don, I think you have her attention

Not very enamoured with our offerings 

When we stepped ashore armed with vegetable peelings in a bag, they followed us but didn't seem to like our meagre offerings, preferring to take tortillas from another dinghy that had just landed, so as I said I'm not fond of pigs I was able to stand back and watch the fun as a family were being pestered for food.

We spent 2 nights at Staniel Cay and met a couple of other yachts we knew, one couple from Grenada on Scherzo with Scott, Paula and Jack the chief of security dog.
The other boat we had heard of named Morpheus of London with Richard and Jan we were told to keep an eye open from another couple Dan and Ruth from Evensong, we met them in Martinique in our first season.

Morpheus of London with Richard and Jan friends of friends

Ok where next? to one of our favourite places in the Bahamas Warderick Wells marine reserve, can't wait.
BFN
Glenys and Don
Agua Therapy

More Bahamas, well the Exumas actually

The Bahamas, Exumas

19th April
Next stop Plana Cay for an overnight stop,there is no need to rush, the distance just 39 nm. The wind decided to let us down but we did keep up the main for stability. We dropped the anchor in 5 metres of water, we rolled about for most of the night.
22° 35N 73°37W

20th April Time to head off to Crooked Island to an anchorage off Pittstown a place we had visited on our first season unfortunately we didn't have time to go ashore.

We went ashore in our first season we loved this place.

We anchored in 2.4 metres, pretty much in the same place in our first season
22°49 N 74° 73°37 W

Onwards we go to Clarence town on Long Island another "postcard" place with white sands, clear turquoise waters.

One of the "spired churches" you can see the other in the right of the picture 

The gang, we didn't buy much

It was nice and cool in here

We sat close by enjoying a drink

Local house

Looking back towards the anchorage

Local housing

21st April A 40 nm trip, very little wind with just the headsail to help us along.

2 Nights at anchor in  at the South east of the island, we all went ashore for a stroll to explore we had a lunch as a treat with the odd drink admiring the surroundings.
There are a couple of churches built with twin spires both built by father Jerome on opposite hilltops, he changed his views from Anglican to Catholic or it may have been the other way about its confusing.

23 April. No wind again, engine on to another island we had heard of from other cruisers, Conception Island, uninhabited.
06:30 start but by 14:00 we dropped the anchor in 2.2 mts crystal clear water, and only a couple of other boats here. 23° 51 N 75° 07 W
Well we dinghied around the reef and looked for life a few times in different directions we only saw birds and the biggest barracudas ever.
We took the dinghy at high tide into the lagoon to see the turtles and sharks, others had spoken about but were very disappointed, even at high tide we had to row as the engine was in the sand. Its a very tranquil spot, I should image easy to get lost in.

Both birds are Tropicbirds  Scientific name: Phaethon Lepturus

The adult white tailed has long tailed feathers, roughly half the length of the adult is a pair of feathers that stream out behind extending its length to over 30 inches. They have an "eye mask" and have heavy black bars on the upper side of its wings.

Tropicbirds drink saltwater. Their bodies are able to remove excess salt which is passed as droplets to the tip of the bill, then shaken off. Their legs are so far back on their bodies they shuffle on land pushing themselves forward with their legs, dragging their breast on the ground. 

When they dive into the water and fold their wings an air sack breaks the impact of the water.

We were treated to a couple of spectacular sunsets

Don was on a mission to snorkel on the reef, I didn't fancy it but he did return to say he saw the biggest barracudas ever so he didn't get in

The entrance inside the lagoon

Surrounded by Mangroves  

Just clear water

We stayed for 2 nights it would have been longer but we heard about the weather change coming in so off we set for Georgetown.

25 April: Ok no wind again but by 13:15 we set the anchor outside Great Exuma Island Georgetown, in Elizabeth harbour but is quite a ride out of the town as its depth is a little shallow for us.

A little more info:
Exuma is a district of the Bahamas, consisting of over 365 islands, also called cays. The largest of the cays is Great Exuma, which is 37 mi (60 km) in length and joined to another island, Little Exuma by a small bridge. The capital and largest city in the district is George Town (permanent population 1,000), founded 1793 and located on Great Exuma. The Tropic of Cancer runs across a beach close to the city. The entire island chain is 130 mi (209 km) long and 72 sq. mi (187 km²) in area. Great Exuma island has an area of 61 sq. mi (158 km²)

This place is a very popular spot for cruisers over the winter time we heard there can be as many as 500 yachts but most of them had gone either North or south so we had plenty of room. The long narrow Stocking Island is opposite with Sand Dollar bay.
Once again we met up with Impressionist and a couple of other yachts we have spoken to on our SSB radio net so it was great to meet up.

This is in one of the oldest hotels in town 

The gang again on our little walk

Which way?

A scary few hours:
The weather always denotes when and where we can be, come or go, the squalls played games with us which isn't so bad when you anchor well enough but the thunderstorms can be very unnerving when we have that big metal thing sticking up for 60ft or so.

Follow the leader:
During our time here we had to move to the lee of Stocking Island for more protection from the wind as it was getting stronger and the direction changed, most other boats followed too but when we went back again so did they.


We do enjoy the Bahamas it seems such a shame to rush past so many others we would love to spend more time here but we need to get to the US and head North. Some of the islands can only be seen if the boat has a shallow keel so who knows one day we will return.

Next stop Rudder Cay to see a Mermaid, what?

BFN
Agua Therapy
Glenys and Don
(now in Fort Lauderdale)