Dominica March 3rd 2013

Here we are in Dominica, Prince Rupert Bay hanging on to a buoy, its a huge bay, since we arrived we have seen lots of boats come and go including a square rigger named Sea Cloud.

Sea Cloud, we spoke to the crew who said the passengers were from National Geographic.

When we first arrived the boat boy Martin came out to help us tie up and has since told us quite a bit about Dominica its pretty obvious he loves his island and has a thriving business organising tours and fund raising for PAYS which helps to provide funds for the security and many of the events here. Tonight we go to the beach barbecue no doubt to try their local rum punch and juices.

Martin took Don ashore to checkin with the customs department.

Each day boat boys come by to see if we want fruit or selling something or some kind of service or other.

Just the beach

Palm tree, seed washes onto the beach and plants itself.

The dinghy skippered by both of us has ferried us in and out of the beach and town dock when we explored the local town and on Saturday there was a local market selling fresh fruit and vegetables direct from the farmers themselves. You do have to check prices for everything here as some will push their luck if they can.

Our courtesy flag with the Sisserou parrot

The national flag has a Sisserou parrot on it which is their national bird. They are roughly the same size as Beaky my bird at home but the Sisserou is very colourful, bright green back, purple neck, green tipped red tail and purple underneath.  If you google it you will get all the info, its an endangered species and only here in Dominica, quite rare roughly 250 are remaining, as one of the hurricanes destroyed much of their habitat.

Parrots habitat in the canopy, so high, what a view!

So on Friday we took a tour with 6 other people into the forrest and to see a couple of tiny seaside villages. We were picked up by boat from Agua Therapy and taken to a minibus the the driver Paul started the trip inland explaining what we would probably see along the way.
Ok if we were told it would involve trekking I would have definitely taken stronger more robust and suitable footwear. Oh well never mind I ended up wading through the rivers and streams while others balanced on some very slippery rocks at least I only managed to go half way in once, up to below my knee and that was when someone was holding on to me.

This was an easy crossing

Milton waterfall 80ft, it made a lot of noise!

A weird tree inspired by Salvador Dali I think

The hike to the parrots habitat was stunning a little climb passing the most amazing trees some huge and enormous ferns, plants that we have at home as house plants. Our guide showed us huge trees that grow to 300 feet or more, they are used to make dug out canoes, some others which are very hard wood which are used for building. Farmers grow coffee trees, cinnamon trees, cocoa, grapefruit, nutmeg, wild watercress, ginger in the ground in fact so many things that we can't remember everything. He explained that most things are used for herbal medicines even marigolds which help when a baby is sick. Almost all of the trees are protected and permission has to be given to cut down anything.

The bananas and grapefruit here are the best we have tasted, and the grapefruit are very juicy.
No photographs of the parrots sorry they move to fast for any of us to take a decent shot but we did see quite a few and heard them too.
We saw tiny humming birds, bright iridescent blue and green, they too are incredibly fast, just like the large bees we see in Spain but slightly bigger. I am determined to have a photo sometime.

Prizes if you know what these are then, zoom in you will see 

Can you see the bird? Its very similar to a hawk

As we were walking away from the hot spring a "rasta" guy was walking towards us carrying a bunch of leaves so I asked him "what are you going to use those for", he said "if I went with him he would show me" I replied err I don't think that my husband would be very happy and declined his offer. I never did find out and I often think "what if I had gone with him"

On the return trip Paul took us into 2 tiny villages both make their living from fishing, in fact in one the minibus could only get in so far. The first one no way can anything pass by the van. All of us did take a drink and a little roll to eat opposite the local post office.

The post office was closed for lunch

During the walks to the waterfall and hot springs at times was difficult clambering over moss covered rocks to say the least but it was all worth it, I did enjoy the dip in the hot spring but so small only 4 of us went in.

This is just across from the beach oh are those reefs and rocks unkind to boats

Guess this poor yacht was beached then

This little guy had his fill with Don's chips

Last nights sunset but wait

The green flash now you have seen it too.
I didn't even see it myself until I had uploaded the picture to the computer, it must have been a split second 

Ok now going to change ready for tonight, we may leave this island soon but I think we may be back sometime.
BFN
Agua Therapy
Glenys and Don

Martinique hmm not bad!

17th –26th Feb 2012 

Departed St Lucia last Sunday after a couple of nights at anchor outside in the bay there were so many yachts at anchor, there is a Sandals resort on the beach which wasn't too far away. 

Sandals

The crossing to Martinique was quite good apart from the swell, it took about 4 hours. Entering the mouth of the bay  could be a little tricky as there are reefs everywhere so thankfully the pilot books and the electronic charts kept us out of trouble mind you it is quite well marked. 

Well what a different place, in fact as you approach Martinique you can see its very lush with plants and trees, the colour of the water is lovely, so our first impression was good. So we wound our way through boats and markers we dropped the anchor in what we thought would be the best protected spot not too far away from the mangroves. The whole place seems to be full of boats, hundreds, some huge catamarans down to tiny monohulls with people living on them.  After being at anchor for a couple of days the wind increased and having made wet trips with the dinghy into Le Marin Marina we decided to take the boat into the marina for a couple of days. 

Looking for lunch 

Martinique is French and uses the Euro, both of us do try our best at times and so far we haven't come unstuck, most of the marina staff speak English and the customs and immigration checkin was easy, you just do it yourself on the computer, click print, hand over 5 Euros and the paper that’s it! Eaten out a few times nothing special yet and a surprising lack of fresh fish, we have seen snails on the menus and frozen prawns that had come from Indonesia. Prices are more expensive for everything I think, I won't even go into the internet rip off. 

So far from what we have seen the people seem much more affluent, the roads are better and we haven't been asked for money unlike St Lucia. I guess by the amount of puddles and mud in some places they always have enough rain.

The marina is huge, 750 berths I think, the office is at the other end from us so its a long walk from the boat but at least its quiet at night, although the kids on wobbly skateboards are beginning to drive us nuts on the wooden pontoon. 

One of our trips into the marina was lets say choppy, the waves and the wind touching 20 knots decided they would half drown us so it ended up  an expensive trip to buy dry clothes and a pair of flip flops. After lunch and few hours checking out the place we collected the dinghy so we could go to the dinghy dock close to Carrefour, well we didn't make it that far, someone had not checked the amount of fuel had he, and then the engine decided she wasn't going any further. Picture this, there we were, no where near the shore or the boat, traffic going in and out was heavy and the sea was lumpy. Don said he would have to row, oh heck it was a dreadful thought, as Don started to take out the oars thankfully another dinghy came by with 2 very kind french guys took our lines and started to tow us back to the boat, well now first boat with 2 hefty elderly guys one driving and steering, the other holding our lines by hand tied to us. Their dinghy stacked with cases of wine and bags of food from Carrefour, their engine was only a 4 HP going at full speed so he could plough through the increasing wind and sea. Then trying to explain by hand signals as neither of us speak French no its not that boat its way over there, I half expected their engine to run out of fuel too. There's me in a new dress, (Don said you will be fine we wont get wet on the way back) oh and never mind the torrential rain that decided at that moment to saturate all of us great!

My dress after the soaking in salt water, oh did the colour run.

Wednesday 20th Feb: Walked about a mile to a bus stop and waited for the bus to Saint Anne, its on the south side of the approach to Le Marin, in fact we passed it on the way. On the bus we passed fields which have huge cows some with calves all very pale skinned which are not at all like ones in the UK.

St Annes church inside a little plain compared to most

We were anchored just outside this pretty lagoon, I think the hotel nearby made this.

The dinghy dock in Point du Bout a little way from where we anchored.

The anchorage looks very wide  and very pretty, real picture postcard stuff. There is a small market everyday that sell spices, rum, fresh fruit and vegetables and gifts. 

Chocolate smells so good

So many to choose from the smells were fantastic

So we moved on to Saint Anne and had a couple of nights at anchor just went ashore twice to look around and bought some of that fresh vanilla peppercorns and choc but have to figure out how to use it now. 

Friday Moved on to Fort de France and although the bay is huge there are lots of reefs and ferries tearing about at silly speeds  finding a sheltered place with enough space to swing can be difficult but tucked ourselves in a corner away from the swell. We caught the fast ferry to Fort de France main anchorage close to the fort which is a naval base.

Don on the ferry wondering how to take the ferry out, this tiny marina is packed

While ashore we met an smashing American couple who were on the boat next to us, they very kindly asked us onboard for sundowners and nibbles. While we sat there watching the sun go down no sooner than I asked Ruth if they had seen the "green flash" (very famous google it) she said they had seen 3 and all recently the sun appeared to have a green tinge and looked surrounded by green, I thought it must be my glasses but I wasn't wearing them. I can hear you all saying it must have been the cocktails, NO it wasn't the drink I had hardly touched mine by then and Ruth saw it too! So I thought that ones for the blog! Pity I didn't have the camera with me

Fort De France anchorage in front of the fort where we are anchored

Don and Mr Grumpy, he stole Dons hat!

Not sure if Don is saying "look into my eyes" or the big guy

Didn't really suit me but it did cover my ears and matched my bra colour

Well what do you think did he buy them?

Went to a mexican place for fajitas and loved the sign.

Come on do you get your fruit and veg delivered like this, the bananas were the best I have ever tasted.

How this thing stays upright and in 20 knots of wind is amazing. However someone said he rolled over in the marina and fruit was floating everywhere

Tuesday:  Moved into the anchorage inside Fort de France and went shopping by dinghy twice to re provision and pop into McDonalds so we could use the internet and of course a mac flurry, nice sitting under the air conditioning but by the time I came out I was frozen and it was way up in the high 30's outside. 

Next an overnighter to Dominica so  I guess we won't be updating the blog or be in touch with anyone for a few days so don't worry.

Back soon

Agua Therapy

Just loving the life!

Don and Glenys

Progress in St Lucia

We have been here just over a week now recuperating from the crossing and catching up with all those chores that can't be done at sea. Washing for a start, 4 loads in the laundry 200 EC dollars plus all the other stuff I washed myself like cushion covers for the cockpit, bedding for the forward cabin, tea towels, towels and normal everyday clothes mind you the constant warm winds  here do dry things very quickly.

Rodney Bay marina

Nice properties with their own moorings, very nice! 

The sides of the hull are shiny now and the stainless is almost clean, the fridge has been defrosted and cleaned. The cooker was removed, cleaned and behind and the sides of the cooker were scrubbed which took away the eggs that escaped on the passage. Thanks Don xx

Don loves a Sunday lunch, It was very good

Sunday 10th Feb: We had our lunch out, couldn't believe the sign which said traditional sunday lunch 39 EC dollars, roughly £8.50  it was quite good, roast potatoes, mixed veg, 2 huge yorkshire puds and gravy, I only ever manage 1 and part of that I gave to Don.

In fact most of our meals out have been very good, the steakhouse did 2 lovely steaks which were big and juicy, in fact there was no room for anything else. That was Friday night the plan was to go to the "Friday night jump" after dinner was aborted due to the downpour of rain, maybe the rum punch was responsible  for me falling asleep at the table so we called a taxi and returned to the boat.

  

Rum punch, full of vitamins, its fruit juice really!

Well we took the dinghy out together for her maiden voyage. I was only wet when Don was at the helm, I stayed dry when I was in charge. Went for a spin to the mall which is through the area where people stay at anchor or on bouys. Then out of the marina into the anchorage which is huge then past one of the Sandals resorts which doesn't look that exclusive mind you we didn't try to go in.

A very enterprising guy, Fruit and veg delivered by boat, I think some of it falls overboard as the boat rocks and rolls.

Exploring St Lucia: The place is much more commercial than we thought, the supermarkets are very American and British you can buy just about anything, at a price! I wish I had taken the camera, yesterday I even saw a christmas pudding.
So far on the bus we travelled to Castries the capital, passing Sandals in the south then caught a bus our to Soufriere. Our friends had sent an e-mail saying they had sailed there and as we heard it was nice to see so on the bus we went. BIG MISTAKE!

This sign on the wall was taken at the bus stop

Oh we do wish someone had warned us NOT to travel by bus, when we asked a bus driver he said the journey would take just over 30 - 35 minutes. He was not the driver to Soufriere. Ok we board the 15 seater minibus, we had to sit at the back and they only leave when they are full so after roughly 45 minutes we were on our way. Heading out of town the road started to wind up very steep hills at breakneck speed then down the other side round hairpin bends, swerving from side to side trying to miss holes in the road, to be fair he did miss most but the springs at the back must have failed at some time because we felt every bump. Travelling by bus both there and back which was in the dark was one of the most scary journeys EVER, even Don thought our time had come when the driver while on his mobile overtook a truck on a bend. The roads are narrow and lots of hairpin bends through the mountains with huge ditches on one side and no barriers on the other at all there is is a drop.
The journey took 65 minutes each way, never again we asked someone is there a ferry to Castries, nope busses or taxis, a taxi costs 250 US $ one way.
Ok Soufriere is on the West coast, stunning views but I think it must be much better from the sea, there is a "cathedral" and there was a funeral going on at the time so we didn't go in.  No picture I didn't think it was fitting.

This was taken from the restaurante looking at part of the anchorage                   

Looks pretty from here, the town is very different

We saw a concrete slab in which on it was written Queen Elizabeth stood on this spot in 1966 I expect she didn't go by bus! it was the first time she had set foot in the Caribbean.

Local police station, the police have very colourful ties but didn't ask to take their picture I didn't fancy being arrested. 

The local post office

If you google Soufriere check out its history, way too much info for me to write. http://www.stlucia.org/tour/history_soufriere.asp

The Pitons, Dramatic! to think we drove through mountains almost like that

We ate in a seafront place, Don ate "yard bird" with vegetables, the waitress said it was local chicken,  it took a little while to come and I did wonder if they had removed one of the legs from the chickens walking in the gutters in the street, so if you go there and find a chicken on crutches thats maybe the one Don had. I stuck to chicken roti, very nice.

Why did the chicken cross the road? easy to stay out of the pot

Its Wednesday now, here much later than we intended to stay but we are cruisers now and are not in a hurry yet. So today the boat will be prepared for sea again, trying to avoid things from rattling and then hopefully the next blog will be from Martinique, a short sail between the islands, we plan to be at anchor so there maybe no internet for a little while. I tried to buy a dongle but the guy in the pc shop had never heard of them.

BFN
Agua Therapy
Don and Glenys

Additions about the crossing and St Lucia

During the crossing the blog was just updated with short notes which were done via the sat phone. Our friend John had talked us into hard wiring the phone and installing a fixed antenna so the previous attempts of me standing on the stairs with the phone attached to the pc and holding on at the same time while trying to obtain a signal were a much better way of sending notes to the blog were easier. The weather grib files were sent for the same way too but still sitting at the desk trying to type and still holing on tight was a challenge at times.

Ok the crossing, we ate well normally something which I had cooked previously then frozen  and vacuum packed or meals when I could stop things from flying across the cabin, either the food which could be very messy at times or the bowls which we used, flat plates don't work too well either. Oh I do wish I had bought those big dog bowls I spoke about before but couldn't find.

Anyway I did use the pressure cooked and cooked a ham hock one day and it was a short time after throwing away the bone we were joined by the Orca whales and babies, it was a little unnerving having such huge beasts so close to the boat, we weren't sure just how many there were and it wasn't until they rolled on the side and we saw the white underbelly while they studied us that we recognised what they were. I was so glad none of us were hanging our legs over the side or else the whales may have had a much larger snack. Karen did see a few minutes later a shark and we do hope the whales and babies were way out of reach then. Sorry no pics way too much excitement to go for the camera.

Not so much for dinner but it was nice

Ern fighting with one of the fish, not that they caught many

Just 2 pairs out of 4 sailing boots, they do take up a lot of room

Don with an instruction book! I will keep this forever , men don't read instruction books do they girls?

See our nets with veggies and oranges for Don, I thought we may have made the net into a hammock but thought better of it afterwards

Don having a much needed shave, that was as close as he was allowed to come until the bristles went 

I could have scrubbed the decks with his beard

Vera our vane taking care of the self steering, she was only thrown off twice when she was hit with big waves, she saves us using the electronic autopilot which uses a lot of power

As you know many yachts are crossing the Atlantic as its suposed to be the best time to cross and you expect to come in contact or even see other boats, well one night Don did see another yacht behind us and only because what he thought was a star which seemed so be moving or getting closer did he re check the radar. The radar showed nothing but I looked at with Don at the yacht with sails flapping not too far behind us, it was showing the anchor light which is not normal at all. We called on the radio and were answered after a while by some poor guy who said that the navigation lights had failed 2 days out and the anchor light was his only option. He added that he had just had 3 days of 50 knot winds which must have been nasty, he turned soon after the chat he was bound for Barbados.

I did mention sleeping on the position updates, how Don managed on our bed I will never understand but remember he was in the navy and when Dons head hits the pillow he's out like a light. Karen also managed to sleep on the bed in the forward cabin which is very noisy and bouncy or in the cockpit normally strapped on with a strap around something. Ern well all over the place and me, either the floor in between the engine and nav station which was fine until Don came on watch which meant him either stepping on me or the cushions I was wedged in with. The other disturbance of the hourly check on the plotter and radar together with the time difference plays havoc with your body clock so thats the reason its now 03:47 local and I'm now writing this blog.

Since being here there are a few folks on boats we know that we met in Cartagena or met along the way, when you chat to most they seem to know others we know too its a lovely friendly community. We are still doing some maintenance on the boat and trying to organise the chores like the washing and do intend to look around the island soon after all thats why we came here.

I bought a sim card which we have a reasonably priced plan to call europe land lines however it doesn't work for all the islands here. Rodney bay marina has free internet so I have managed to use skype a couple of times pretty good.

Since we have been here we have eaten out and had some pretty good meals not to mention the rum cocktails and found the happy hour which in one bar lasts for 2 hours can be pretty good. I'm sure the fruit juice in those didn't agree with me or it may have been something else that made me miss the step and put me on my backside in fits of giggles. Don had a few problems that night too but I wont go any further, he says he was just over tired and didn't seem to remember much the following day.

Ok its now Thursday 7th and Ern and Karen departed for a hotel then onto Trinidad on Monday so they should see the carnival which was in our plan but maybe next year now.

My treat the other day, there is a day spa so I had a lovely facial, massage and a pedicure, wonderful! so if you come to Rodney bay the place is run by Tracy an English lady who trains local people here to a very high standard.

Yesterday Don took the dinghy out of the bag and its now inflated ready to use to go to the local shopping mall, we need to replace the kettle which decided to leak during the crossing and buy some fresh goodies, I do hope the eggs will manage the trip back ok.

Plans next, well still bits to be fit and have the hull polished, check out more here,  maybe go to anchor and swim. The original plan was to go south to Bequia but after talking to others and hearing about security we have been put off, in future we will probably be at anchor and be using the dinghy to go ashore. Then onwards to Martinique which isn't too far away, as we don't speak any French we have no idea how we will cope, we hear its very nice.

Thanks for all the congratulation e-mails.
Next time more news from St Lucia

BFN
Agua Therapy
Don and Glenys

Safe in St Lucia

We made it! safe and sound in Rodney bay marina St Lucia.

16 days exactly from Mindelo Cape Verde. The sea state wasn't really very nice to us it was quite confused at times and was slapping us to boot.

We hardly saw any other boats all the way it was only the last 20 miles or so we watched others coming from Martinique.

I will be posting some photo's later but for now we are going to catch up with some rest, have fun, catch up with some friends with our group and even sample the rum.

BFN

Agua Therapy